Tasting with François Pinon
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The wines of François Pinon are considered among the finest of Vouvray. François, a former child psychologist, took over the estate from his father in 1987. Combining traditional techniques (such as short pruning, working the soil and low yields) with the latest technology, François emphasizes ecologically friendly vineyard and cellar practices.
The vineyards are in the corniche of the Vallée de Cousse in Vernou, the premiers côtes of Vouvray. The soil is clay and silica on a base of limestone (tuffeau) with flint (silex) and the area is rated among the top sites in the appellation for Vouvray of distinction and long life. Pinon follows a discipline of plowing the vineyards, not using chemical fertilizers and pesticides and, of course, he harvests by hand and uses no cultured yeasts. All new plantings are done by selection and no nursery clones are used; the vines are an average of 25 years old. He is certified organic.
The alcoholic fermentation occurs in wood barrels, then the wines are aged in stainless steel or foudres (big casks, about twice the size of barrique Bordelaise) to obtain a balance between fruit and reduction. There is one racking to remove the heavy lees and the wine remains on its fine lees until bottling which takes place a full year after the harvest to "finish" the wine. Rather than use a large dose of sulfur dioxide, Pinon prefers to filter his wines to insure their stability and aging potential.
The Cuvée Tradition is what is termed a vin tendre, the sweetness is between a sec and demi-sec. It has a delicate sweetness in the attack that gives over to a pleasant citrus finish with resonance and length. It has flavors reminiscent of apples and quince with a slightly spicy accent. This is a wine that will continue to develop with age, but is affable and charming now.
For more information about this producer, please visit http://www.louisdressner.com/.
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