The 1989 Malvasia needs coaxing to eke out the aromas, but they soon muster courage and offer attractive scents of melted candle wax, quince, walnut oil and tangy marmalade. The palate is well-balanced with very crisp acidity that cuts through this Madeira with ease. There are delightful hazelnut and dried honey notes towards the finish, which shows more composure than the 1990 Malvasia. This is well-worth seeking out. It was in 1850 that Joao Pereira d’Oliveira founded his company. He initially sold wines to other shippers, and it was not until the 1970s that they began to sell Madeira wines under their own label (though they continued to sell and buy lots, to and from other shippers.) It is a small company, but there are plentiful stocks of reserve wines. Their policy is to bottle on demand, which means their vintage wines can invariably benefit from extended cask aging. Let us begin with their reserve wines, which are mainly Tinta Negra Mole and are matured under estufugem.