The wines that bear the Bourcier-Martinot label are made especially for us by our friends Collovray & Terrier of Domaine des Deux Roches in the Maconnais village of Davayé. The duo cultivates 36 total hectares in region, 20 of which are are Saint-Véran appellations, and 15 of which are Macon AOC.
The terrain is dominated by Mount Pouilly, which reaches 485 meters, as well as two limestone escarpments known as Solutré and Vergisson, both from prehistoric times. The geologic richness of the clay-limestone soils, combined with the mild climate and excellent southern exposure, make for ideal growing conditions.
The majority of their Macon AOC vines are farmed in the villages of Davayé, Charnay-lès-Macon, and Pierreclos, all of which grow below the giant rock ridges of Solutré and Vergisson. Interestingly, the Saint-Véran appellation shares characteritstics with the Pouilly-Fuissé terroir where Callovian clay-limestone soils are present. Collovray & Terrier own some of the most prestigious "climats" in the area, including Les Cras, Les Terres Noires, Les Chailloux, La Côte Rôtie, and En Carette. Since the 1990s, Collovray & Terrier have chosen to only blend parcels that share similar terroirs.
In 2009, the families embarked on a process of organic conversion. They are moving parcel-by-parcel, and keenly observing changes as the process eveolves. They do not know if they will eventually seek official certification, but they are committed to working in tandem with Mother Nature. To that end, herbacides are prohibited, grasses are cultiuvated in alternating rows, and manure and compost are used as natural fertilizers. Additionally, plantings are at 8,000 vines per hectares to naturally limit yields and ensure the highest quality of grapes.
The search for purity is carried into the cellar where everything is gravity-fed into a pneumatic press and is pressed ever so slowly and gently. The free-run juice of both the Saint-Véran and Macon AOC are then vinified in stainless steel to preserve fruit and freshness. Alcoholic fermentaion last several weeks, followed by malolactic fermentation to further promote texture and crunchiness in the wines. The Macon stays in steel vats for ageing, whereas the Saint-Véran sees a combination of steel vat and French oak barrels or demi-muids, depending on the vintage.
The Bourcie-Martinot Macon is made from a selection of some of the northern-most vineyards in the appellation. With hints of citrus and white stone fruit on the palate, this beautifully balanced wine resembles the more reputable regional wines of the Côte d’Or. It is both an excellent example of a Mâcon, as well as a tremendous value! The big brother Saint-Véran has rich floral aromas with hints of pear and apple. The palate is seamless with creamy textures and a lovely acidity. This bottle is begging for a place on the table next to fish, poultry or an aged goat cheese.
Each vintage we are struck by the consistent quality and value from Collovray & Terrier. So much so that we jumped at the chance to sell Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from their sister domaine in Limoux, Château d'Antugnac. In a world where white Burgundy is increasingly inaccessible, and southern French whites are often heavy from heat, we are proud to work with two estates where freshness and charm are held in such high regard.