The wines of Givry have been heralded since the era of Henri IV, but ever since phylloxera hit the Côte Chalonnaise in the late 1800s, the appellation has been slow to recover. Domaine Joblot led the resurgence and is credited by many for putting Givry on the Burgundy map. Givry has a natural amphitheater that shelters the village from westerly winds, and the rocky, limestone soils give a chiseled minerality to the wines. Today, with the dynamic Juliette Joblot at the helm, the family's 13.5 hectares are farmed sustainably. With nine hectares of premier cru vineyards, including Clos de la Servoisine and Clos du Cellier aux Moines, some of the best parcels in the appellation are found in Joblot's cellar.
Unlike many growers who determine the ripeness of their grapes based on sugar levels, the Joblots base their picking decisions on acidity levels. During the harvest, severe sorting takes place in the vineyards, and Juliette is known to drop up to 40 percent of a vintage if it does not meet her standards. In the cellar, 90% of the Pinot Noir is de-stemmed, and long, cool macerations are encouraged. The Chardonnay from "En Vau" vineyard as well as the fruit that contributes to the cuvée Madamoiselle, is pressed slowly. While each parcel is vinified separately, each cuvée undergoes natural fermentation in the same manner so that the character of the individual terroirs come through. The resulting reds are plush, spicy and balanced, and the partner white wines are sumultaneously dense and lively. Although the wines drink well on release, they have a track record for aging 20-25 years in good vintages.
If standing at the top of the Givry ampitheatre overlooking the picturesque town and expansive Côte Chalonnaise isn't in the cards, these charming and quietly powerful Joblot bottlings are the next best thing.