Aurélien Gerbais is the fourth generation to lead domaine Pierre Gerbais located in the sleepy village of Celles sur Ource in the Aube, the same village where Cedric Bouchard has most of his vineyards. Just 2 hours from the Cote d’Or, Aurélien always felt a strong connection to Burgundy and studied Enology at the University at Beaune and worked at Domaine Hubert Lamy with Oliver Lamy for a period before returning home. The estate is 15 hectares, with half planted to Pinot Noir, 4 hectares of Chardonnay and 4 hectares of Pinot Blanc, of which there are less than 100 hectares planted in Champagne. This quiet corner of the Aube and small village of Celles sur Ource is at the confluence four valleys formed by the four rivers of the Aube: the Ource, Laigne, Arce and Seine. The terroir in this area is like the geomorphology in the rest of the Aube, with the Portlandian forested hilltops, Kimmeridgean mid-slopes and richer clays and earth at the bases of the hills. Vineyard work is natural, practicing biodynamic, with an emphasis on preservation of old vines.

Aurélien took over the family domaine in 2011 and like many producers of his generation, he sought to evolve the fairly traditional profile of the family winery to something more dynamic and progressive. The biggest evolution came with the introduction of five single-parcel wines each made from a single variety. All are produced in a perpetual reserve style started in 2011. Though the Bochot Pinot Meunier was started a bit later in 2016. This parcel was planted to Meunier in 2012 by Aurélien, from massale material, an uncommon variety in the Côtes des Bar.  The wines are produced in a similar style, allowing the character of the parcel to come through, even more strongly than the vintage character; the outlier is Beauregard, which is produced as a Rosé de Saignée. His entry level vintage wine called Grains de Celles. Grains de Celles is named for his home village to illustrate all of the different expositions and geology in the village. Each parcel is vinified separately and then either blended into Grains de Celles or one of the excellent single parcel perpetual reserves. After a gentle pressing and settling, the wines are fermented and aged in stainless steel before bottling.

Meticulous, but soulful, these are incredible, elegant expressions of the Aube!