Aurélien Gerbais is the fourth generation to lead Domaine Pierre Gerbais which is located in the sleepy village of Celles sur Ource in the Aube region of Champagne. This area has become an epicenter of a qualitative revolution since the early 2000's when now famous producers like Cedric Bouchard, Marie-Courtin, Vouette et Sorbée, and later Champagne Clandestin started releasing their own estate-bottled wines. Interestingly, these wineries are all a very short drive of each another and share a similar terroir from vineyards dotting these gentle undulating hillsides.

Aurélien took over the family domaine in 2011 and like many producers of his generation, he sought to evolve the fairly traditional profile of the family winery to something more dynamic and progressive. Gerbais always felt a strong connection to Burgundy and studied Enology at the University at Beaune and worked with Olivier Lamy at Domaine Hubert Lamy. The two remain close and since Burgundy is only 2-hours away, Aurélien spends a good amount of time there visiting producers, tasting wine, end generally, getting inspired by the great wines of that region.

The Pierre Gerbais estate is 15 hectares, all in Selection Massale, with about half planted to Pinot Noir, and the remainder to roughly 25% each of Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc, of which there are less than 100 hectares in existence in Champagne. Interestingly, Gerbais explained that Pinot Blanc was historically planted in the area as a protection against spring frosts as it generally buds and flowers a bit later than the traditional Champenois varieties. There is also one small parcel of Pinot Meunier (Bochot), a rarity in the Aube, that was planted in 2012.

This quiet corner of the Aube around Celles sur Ource is at the confluence four valleys formed by the four rivers of the Aube: the Ource, Laigne, Arce and Seine. The terroir in this area reflects the geomorphology in the rest of the Aube, with Portlandian forested hilltops, Kimmeridgian mid-slopes and richer clays and earth at the bases of the hills. Roughly half of the Gerbais vineyards are planted with south-facing exposition (S, SW, SE) and the other half with a north-facing aspect (N, NW, NE). Vineyard work is natural, without chemical additives and using some biodynamic practices. There is also an emphasis on preservation of old vines with the average age of their holdings over 40 years.

At harvest, each of the parcels is picked and vinified separately creating a patchwork of not only individual grape varieties but also stylistic and ripeness profiles that can later be assembled to create base wines of complexity and balance. The wines are all vinified in stainless steel tanks of various sizes which Aurélien feels feels gives the purest expression of his underlying terroirs. The wines are kept on their lees for 10 months, a bit longer than most producers, and then are bottled without fining and filtration.

The entry level wine is called Grains de Celles which is produced from a single vintage. There is also a fresh-styled Grains de Celles rosé d'assemblage that is produced from a similar base wine. Grains de Celles is named for his home village and illustrates all of the different grape varieties, expositions and geological formations in the village that make up the blend. At the top of the Gerbais range there are five excellent single-parcel and single-variety cuvées that Aurélien initiated on upon his arrival in 2011. Chardonnay Champ Viole, Pinot Blanc La Loge, Pinot Meunier Bochot, Pinot Noir Les Grandes Cotes and a Pinot Noir Rosé de Macération Beauregard. All are produced in a perpetual reserve style that he started in 2011, though the Bochot Meunier was started a bit later in 2016. The wines are produced in a similar style, allowing the character of the parcel to come through, even more strongly than the vintage character.

Meticulous, but soulful, these are incredible, elegant expressions of the Aube!